Pengendalian hama saat musim hujan

Pengendalian hama pada taman tropis yang terdapat di hotel-2 dan bangunan gedung pada musim hujan .

Pada artikel yang telah kami publish beberapa waktu lalu, telah kami sampaikan bahwa keberhasilan pengendalian hama permukiman didalam ruangan sangat di tentukan oleh pengendalian hama diluar ruangan atau di taman, karena tanaman/pohon adalah tempat yang nyaman untuk istirahat hama-2 tersebut, seperti lalat, nyamuk , laba-2, dan serangga-2 yang lain. Perlu kita ketahui pada waktu musim hujan tanaman yang biasanya kita spray dengan pestisida, akan terbawa oleh air hujan. Untuk mengatasi hal tesebut, dibawah ini akan kami sampaikan beberapa cara yang telah kami terapkan pada hotel-2 di bali.

Yang harus dipersiapkan :

1. Pestisida (Krakatau 100EC)
2. Perata perekat (dengan bahan aktif Polioksi Etilen Alkil Fenolic Ether 810 g/l)
3. Air (untuk melarutkan pestisida)
4. Sprayer atau Misblower

Cara aplikasi :

1. Larutkan pestisida dengan perbandingan 1 liter Krakatau 100EC pada 100 liter air kemudian tambahkan perata perekat 50 ml
2. Tuangkan campuran antara air + Krakatau 100EC + perata perekat kedalam tangki spayer atau misblower kemudian kocok sampai rata.
3. Upayakan pada saat penyemprotan, dilakukukan dengan mengikuti arah angin dan arah penyemrotan dilakukan dari bawah keatas. Lakukan sampai rata.
4. Dari pengalaman yang pernah kita lakukan apabila hujan turun setiap hari, penyemprotan residual (residual spay) tersebut dapat diulang setiap 3 hari sekali.

Keterangan :

1. Pada saat hujan, pestisida yang telah kita semprotkan akan hilang karena larut oleh air hujan kemudian akan jatuh, maka perlu ditambahkan perata perekat
2. Di upayakan melakukan penyemprotan dari posisi bawah, karena supaya bagian bawah daun atau batang terkena pestisida, dimana pada saat hujan hama-2 tersebut banyak yang berlindung di tempat-2 tersebut. Dengan demikian pengentalian akan tetap efektif walaupun pada musim hujan.

SELAMAT MENCOBA ……. SEMOGA BERHASIL
Info lebih lanjut call: 031-91094095
Salam,….W.P.

ASIAN TIGER MOSQUITO

ASIAN TIGER MOSQUITO

The Asian tiger mosquito is the most common daytime biting mosquito in the Carolinas. This mosquito was accidentally brought into the United States from Asia in used tires. It quickly spread into the southern United States during the late 1980's. This mosquito spreads dog heart-worm, encephalitis, Dengue fever and may be a vector of West Nile virus.
Life cycle. Unlike many native mosquitoes, the Asian tiger mosquito does not breed in swamps or other wet natural habitats. This mosquito breeds in artificial containers such as rain gutters, bird baths, flower pots, tires, barrels, boats, tarps, cans, and garden pools. They can also breed in tree holes and other. They feed mainly during daylight hours, making them a major urban pest for gardeners and other people working or playing outside. Only the female mosquitoes feed on blood, which they use in producing eggs. These eggs can hatch in 24 hours and the emerging larvae (wrigglers), feed on microscopic pieces of organic matter. In about a week they pupate. The pupae (tumblers) last for a few days and swim in the container if disturbed. Adults emerge and the females can bite a day or so later. Females can survive for a month or more.
Control. Night time applications of insecticide fogs by mosquito control agencies often do not effectively control Asian tiger mosquitos because they are active mainly during daylight hours. Homeowner can best control this pest by eliminating breeding sites. Water filled cans, tires, pots, and blocked rain gutters should be drained. If empty containers must be stored they should either be drilled to allow drainage, turned over or placed in a location that does not allow them to fill with water. However, these mosquitoes can fly several miles from breeding sites. If there is an abandoned house or a trash filled yard, the mosquitoes breeding in this site can infest an entire neighborhood.
If breeding sites can not be drained there are some homeowner products that can be added to small water systems to kill the wrigglers. These products are usually a floating device that releases a beneficial bacteria, Bti (Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis), into the water. When the larvae feed on the bacteria, they die. These products, if applied properly will not hurt children, pets or wildlife. These products are designed to treat only small containers, tree holes or ponds. Large bodies of water should only be treated by mosquito control professionals. Before any pesticide is applied always read the label and follow the directions and safety precautions exactly.
You can reduce the chance of being bitten by Asian tiger mosquitoes by wearing insect repellents and long-sleeved shirts and long pants when outdoors. There are a variety of products available. Products with the active component DEET (N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide) work to repel all mosquitoes. Many products have different concentrations of DEET.
The South Carolina Department of Health and Environmental Control recommends that DEET products should be applied sparingly to exposed skin. Most effective repellents will contain 20 percent to 30 percent DEET. Products with more than 30 percent DEET may cause side effects, mainly in children. Repellents may hurt the eyes and mouth, so do not put repellent on the hands of children. No insect repellents should be used on children under 3 years of age." Apply repellents only as directed by the manufacturer’s directions for use on the label. Wash off the repellent when you go back indoors.
For other publications in our Entomology Insect Information Series visit our web site at http://entweb.clemson.edu/cuentres/eiis/index.htm.
____________________________________________________
Prepared by Will K. Reeves, National Science Foundation Graduate Fellow, Eric P. Benson Extension Entomologist/ Associate Professor, and Craig Stoops, Graduate Research Assistant, Department of Entomology, Soils, and Plant Sciences, Clemson University.
____________________________________________________
This information is supplied with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by the Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service is implied. Brand names of pesticides are given as a convenience and are neither an endorsement nor guarantee of the product nor a suggestion that similar products are not effective. Use pesticides only according to the directions on the label. Follow all directions, precautions and restrictions that are listed.
EIIS/MV-12 (New 10/2002).

Are These Breeding Sites on Your Property?

􀀀 Plastic Tarps

􀀀 Clogged Rain Gutters

􀀀 Plastic Buckets

􀀀 Birdbaths

􀀀 Flowerpots

􀀀 Children's Toys
􀀀 Boats
􀀀 Tires

􀀀 Cans

􀀀 Bottles

􀀀 Bamboo stumps

Ant Baits

Ant Trails: A Key to Management with Baits1
John Klotz, Dave Williams, Byron Reid, Karen Vail, and Phil Koehler2

1. This document is ENY-259, one of a series of the Entomology and Nematology Department, Florida Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and
Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida. First printed: March 1994. Revised: September 2000. Reviewed: August 2003. Please visit the EDIS Website
at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu.
2. John Klotz, Dave Williams, USDA-ARS, Insects Affecting Man and Animals Labroatory, Gainesville, FL; Byron Reid, Bayer Corporation; Karen Vail,
associate professor, Department of Entomology and Plant Pathology, University of Tennessee, and Phil Koehler, professor/extension entomologist,
Entomology and Nematology Department, Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Gainesville,
32611.

The Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer authorized to provide research, educational
information and other services only to individuals and institutions that function without regard to race, color, sex, age, handicap, or national origin.
For information on obtaining other extension publications, contact your county Cooperative Extension Service office. Florida Cooperative
Extension Service/Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences/University of Florida/Christine Taylor Waddill, Dean.

Communication in the ants is based on chemical signals.

These chemicals are called pheromones and
vary from alarm and nestmate recognition, to the one
we will focus on here, recruitment. All of the pest
ants use odor trails for orientation, but these trails
differ from one species to another. Where the
pheromones originate in the ant's body, their
chemical composition, as well as how long they last,
all vary from one ant species to the next. In fire ants,
the trail chemical is produced by the Dufour's gland,
which is named after its discoverer, Dufour, and is
laid down by the stinger. This pheromone is made up
of molecules which evaporate very quickly. Thus, the
fire ant's odor trail is very short-lived. In comparison,
the trail pheromones of some carpenter ant species,
which are produced by the hind gut, will last for days.
However, in both cases, these odor trails have the
same purpose of communication, namely recruitment
to a resource.

Trailing
A scout ant in search of food leaves the nest and,
in the random search pattern that follows, takes a
somewhat meandering path outward, until she finds
food. She then feeds on the food source and heads
straight back to the nest (Figure 1). Somehow on the
outgoing trip she can keep track of her position with
respect to her nest, and, on the return trip, uses this
information to take the shorter, more direct route
home. On the way back to the nest, she lays down an
odor trail. Once back in the nest, this scout ant then
alerts her nestmates of the food find, which
encourages them to leave the nest. These recruited
ants will follow the odor trail directly to the food
source. In turn, each ant will reinforce the odor trail
until the food is gone. This behavior is a highly
efficient means of exploiting a temporary food
resource.

Figure 1. Ant trail. Credits:
Ant Trails: A Key to Management with Baits 2
In some instances, these odor trails can become
more or less permanent, as in the case of ants that are
visiting permanent food sources such as an aphid
colony, garbage area, and other sites in structures
with permanent food and water. The trail can even be
physically cut into the turf, as with carpenter ants that
chew their way through the thatch layer.
Structural guidelines are another type of trail
that ants use to orient in their natural environment.
These may include twigs and branches which ants use
to travel to and from the nest on foraging trips.
Traveling along a branch lying on the forest floor is
much quicker than negotiating a path through grass or
leaf litter. In the man-made structural environment,
guidelines consist of pipes, conduits, wires and other
utility lines. Ants follow these guidelines to enter
structures as well as to travel within them. These
structural guidelines serve as natural highways for
ants.

Trailing along these chemical or structural
guidelines is an important behavior of ants that if
better understood can be exploited for control
purposes. In inspections, trailing ants should be
observed carefully to determine where they are
getting into structures. Through close observation, the
source of the infestation can be located. Following
trailing ants is the best way to locate the actual nest
site. One can feed wandering ants a little honey or
pieces of insects and then follow them directly back
to their nest site.

In the two examples which follow, this
behavioral knowledge will be applied to the control of
Pharaoh ants in an apartment complex, and carpenter
ants in a home.

Pharaoh Ants
Perhaps never is it more critical to consider
trailing behavior than in baiting programs for
Pharaoh ants (Figure 2). Baits cannot be placed in
just any location and be expected to work. Pharaoh
ant trails and their resources (both food and water)
must be located for proper placement of baits and
effective control.

Figure 2. Pharaoh ant. Credits: James Castner, University
of Florida

An interview with each apartment dweller is a
good way to begin to locate areas of ant activity, and
to educate the resident on the control program. It is
important for the resident to understand that it will
take time for the bait to eliminate the ant problem.
The resident should understand that delayed-action
baits take time to accumulate a toxic dose in the ant
colony, so that the entire colony can be eliminated.
Sprays may be used several days later after baits are
applied to kill off any stragglers, but sprays should be
avoided initially as they will only cause satelliting
(formation of new nests), will kill only a few
foragers, and might contaminate bait stations.
A pretreatment survey should be conducted first
using a dab of peanut butter on a white index card.
The cards are then placed where food and water are
located throughout the apartment complex as well as
outside. Inside, survey cards should be placed in the
apartments, and other areas such as the lobby,
kitchens, laundries, lounge areas and offices. At least
eight to sixteen cards should be placed in each
apartment (usually two to four each in the kitchen,
living room, bathroom, and bedroom). Survey cards
should be placed in any areas where the resident has
seen ant activity.

Window sills should be used for card locations in
the living room and bedroom of each apartment. Dead
insects on window sills attract foraging ants, and the
numerous cracks and crevices around window casings
are ideal nest sites. In the kitchen and bathroom,
cards should be placed near sources of water, such as
pipes and drains, sinks, counter tops, and toilets.
Outside, survey cards should be placed near windows,
around entrances and exits, and incomming and
outgoing plumbing lines. It's important to position
the cards along edges or other structural guidelines,
where the ants are likely to travel. These cards should
be left undisturbed for several hours, and then the
number of worker ants on each card should then be
estimated and recorded on an inspection diagram.
Ant Trails: A Key to Management with Baits 3
This pretreatment survey locates areas where ant
activity is concentrated, so that baits are put out in
areas of greatest ant activity. Monitoring will find
small isolated colonies that otherwise might be
overlooked and could cause reinfestation in the
future. Where feeding occurs at survey cards, the
trailing ants should be traced back to where they are
entering from a crack or crevice, switch plate, pipe
flange, etc. These entrance sites should be noted on
the diagram, and the toxic baits placed here in the
treatment program.

A good floor plan of an infested apartment
complex can be used as the inspection diagram to
document survey data and locate bait treatments. Not
only is this an invaluable tool, but it can also be used
to educate the resident about the ants and discuss
treatment strategy. A floor plan will help in
estimating how much bait or how many bait stations
to use. For an average size room, four to six bait
stations (depending on the level of infestation),
should be sufficient. A large apartment complex with
a heavy infestation of Pharaoh ants will require more
bait and application time, as well as the potential for
a higher frequency of reinfestation compared to a
small apartment complex with a light, localized
infestation.

Carpenter Ants
Although baits are available, the primary
methods for carpenter ant (Figure 3) control are nest
and barrier treatments with residual insecticides. How
can knowledge of trailing behavior be applied to
these methods of control?

Figure 3. Florida carpenter ant. Credits: James Castner,
University of Florida
In carpenter ant control, probably more so than
with most other ant problems, the pretreatment
inspection survey is the single most important
component of a successful control program, because
the nest site is very often extremely difficult to find.
Here, again, the use of structural guidelines by
carpenter ants should be emphasized for inspections.
In cases where control measures have failed it may be
helpful to conduct a night inspection, since carpenter
ants are nocturnal. Just as in Pharaoh ants, a
pretreatment survey (using insects or honey instead of
peanut butter) may also help in determining areas of
ant activity.

The treatment should be focused on areas where
ants travel: behind pipe flanges and switch boxes
where the ants travel along pipes or wires in wall
voids. For treatment inside structures use dusts
applied lightly to avoid repellency which occurs
when too much dust is present. The ants must walk
through the dust and pick it up, not walk around it.
On the outside perimeter, liquid sprays are
applied in a band that is thoroughly and judiciously
placed to prevent ants from trailing into a structure. If
this is not carefully done to provide a continuous
barrier, ants will find a break or bridge to cross over
and infest our structures.

Besides these important chemical control
procedures, there are several nonchemical techniques
which can be used to help out. Trimming back
vegetation that may provide runways for the ants onto
the structure and sealing or caulking entryways into a
structure.

In dealing with ants always keep one step ahead
of their trails, whether during inspections to
determine how they are getting into the structure and
where they are traveling within a structure, or during
treatment focusing on those areas where ants are
likely to travel. Incorporating these ideas on trailing
behavior into ant control programs will insure more
effective inspections and more successful treatments,
and allows for better control while minimizing the
use of chemical pesticides.
Ant Trails: A Key to Management with Baits 4
Using Bait Stations
Like all living organisms, ants have certain
nutritional requirements: carbohydrates, proteins, and
fats. In nature they obtain these essential nutrients
from a varied diet of insect prey (proteins and fats),
nectar, aphid honeydew and other plant products
(carbohydrates). These nutrients are found either in
liquid or solid form. Ants naturally strive for a
balanced diet to optimize the growth of the colony,
however, the amount of each of these three dietary
requirements necessary for optimal growth may vary
seasonally. For example, "bait switching" is well
documented in Pharaoh ants which have satisfied
their appetite for one food and then consequently,
they choose another. Carpenter ants eat a diet rich in
proteins during brood development, usually in the
spring and summer, but the colony will change to
carbohydrate foraging in late summer and fall to meet
the adult worker's increased energy requirements
(Figure 4).

Figure 4. Dietary traits of carpenter ants. Credits:
As structural pests, the ants' opportunity to
achieve a balanced diet is limited only by sanitation
practices and the baits used to control them. Ideally,
sanitation problems can be corrected, so that baits
don't have to compete with other food items, thus
forcing the ants to feed on whichever bait is provided.
Baits are more target-specific than broadcast
applications of insecticides in spot and perimeter
treatments that place heavy loads of broad-spectrum
insecticides into the environment. Baits are more cost
effective compared to more labor intensive
inspections to locate nests (attempts which are often
unsuccessful) and to treatment strategies which often
involve invasive techniques like drilling and dusting.
And, if baits are used properly they are highly
effective. For example they exploit the natural
foraging behavior of ants to recruit and share
resources, thereby spreading the bait toxicant
throughout the entire colony, and eventually
destroying it.

On the negative side, baits tend to be slower
acting than sprays or dusts, requiring patience by a
distraught resident, for example, who needs to be
educated on how baits work and the length of time
required to gain control. Also, their shelf-life is
limited due to susceptibility of the attractive part of
the bait to spoilage. However, the many advantages
of baits far outweigh these two disadvantages, which
can be alleviated through education of the resident
and new and improved bait formulation.
A bait consists of four components: (1) an
attractant, usually a food or pheromone which makes
the bait acceptable and readily picked up, (2) a
palatable carrier, which gives the physical structure
or matrix to the bait, (3) a toxicant, which should be
non-repellent, and delayed in action, effective over at
least a ten-fold dosage range, and (4) other materials
added for reasons of formulation, such as emulsifiers,
preservatives, waterproofing or antimicrobial agents.
Each of these components must be developed and
tested for efficacy. Currently, a variety of baits can be
selected, whose efficacy range from marginal to
excellent in control.
So, how does one deal with this bewildering
array of baits?

The best test of a bait is how it works in the field.
If the ants are attracted to the bait and are feeding,
there's a good chance of eliminating the problem.
However, this only holds true if the bait contains a
toxicant that is slow-acting. Fast-acting insecticides
are only going to kill foraging ants, allowing the
queen, nest workers, and brood to survive and soon
replace those few that are killed before sharing the
poison with their nest mates. Slow-acting insecticides
allow time for the foragers to exchange food,
eventually eliminating the entire nest when the
toxicants reach lethal levels.

Ant Trails: A Key to Management with Baits 5
If the ants are not visiting the bait, then change to
another brand. This is usually sufficient to initiate
feeding again. Of course none of these techniques
will succeed without thorough pre-baiting surveys,
and the sufficient number and proper placement of
bait stations.

PESTISIDA RAMAH LINGKUNGAN BERSPEKTRUM LUAS

PESTISIDA RAMAH LINGKUNGAN BERSPEKTRUM LUAS

Disaat pengetatan anggaran terjadi disana-sini, teman-2 dari penyedia jasa pest control juga banyak yang terkena imbasnya,......namun apabila kita dapat mengambil hikmah dari keadaan seperti saat ini, kita akan tetap bisa bertahan bahkan malah bisa meningkatkan usaha kita. Salah satu hikmahnya adalah kita dituntut untuk kreatif,.....ya... kreatif....... dalam menyikapi permintaan dari para pelanggan atau pengguna jasa. Kami ingin menyumbangkan ide yang mungkin dapat bermanfaat,.... dalam hal menyikapi permintaan pasar seperti saat ini pertimbangkan untuk memilih PESTISIDA DENGAN SPEKTRUM LUAS, dengan harga yang cukup kompetitif namun harus tetap ramah terhadap lingkungan, sehingga dengan satu jenis pestisida saja kita sudah dapat melaksanakan pengendalian hama permukiman, mulai dari fogging, ULV, residual spray, space spray, bahkan bisa menggunakan pelarut air maupun solar/white oil. semoga bermanfaat.............

info lebih lanjut call : 031-91094095

TERMITE BAITS

Termite Baits1

B. J. Cabrera, N.-Y. Su, R. H. Scheffrahn, and P. G. Koehler.2
1. This document is ENY-2001, one of a series of the Entomology and Nematology Department, Florida Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and
Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida. Publication date: July 1998. First revision: February 2002. All graphics by B. Cabrera except Figure 1 by J.
Perrier, Ft. Lauderdale-REC. Formosan Subterranean Termite, ENY-216. Please visit the EDIS Web site at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu. Additional information
on these organisms, including many color photographs, is available at the Entomology and Nematology Department Web site located at
http://entnemdept.ifas.ufl.edu/
2. B. J. Cabrera, assistant professor, Ft. Lauderdale-REC, N.-Y. Su, professor, Ft. Lauderdale-REC, R. H. Scheffrahn, professor, Ft. Lauderdale-REC, P. G.
Koehler, professor/Extension entomologist; Entomology and Nematology Department, Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural
Sciences, University of Florida, Gainesville, 32611.
The Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (IFAS) is an Equal Opportunity Institution authorized to provide research, educational information and
other services only to individuals and institutions that function with non-discrimination with respect to race, creed, color, religion, age, disability, sex,
sexual orientation, marital status, national origin, political opinions or affiliations. U.S. Department of Agriculture, Cooperative Extension Service,
University of Florida, IFAS, Florida A. & M. University Cooperative Extension Program, and Boards of County Commissioners Cooperating. Larry
Arrington, Dean

Introduction
Up until the early 1990s, liquid termiticides were
the main treatments for subterranean termite
infestations. However, the development of termite
baits gave homeowners another option for controlling
subterranean termites. Baits are now widely used and
offer an alternative for those who may not want liquid
treatments applied to the soil around their homes.
Know the Enemy: Termites
Before we start, some background on termites
and termite behavior will help you understand how
baits work.

What Are Termites?
Termites are small insects that eat wood and live
in colonies. The colony is headed by a king and queen
who mate and produce more termites. Soldier
termites defend the colony against invaders and
predators. Worker termites search for food and are
responsible for feeding and taking care of the king
and queen, the young (larvae), and the soldiers.
Termites have microscopic organisms (called
protozoa) living in their digestive tract that help them
to digest wood. Termites are very important in nature
because they break down wood and return nutrients
to the soil. They become a problem only when they
attack our homes and structures.
Figure 1. Some members of a termite colony:
Reproductives (king and queen), Soldier, Immature (larva),
and Worker. (Drawing adapted from Su & Scheffrahn,
2000. Formosan subterranean termite. In: Featured
Creatures. http://creatures.ifas.ufl.edu/).

Termite Baits 2

Termite Behavior
Termites are highly social insects. Within the
colony hundreds, thousands, and sometimes millions
of termites work and live together. They feed and
clean each other and exchange liquid chemical
signals as part of their communication. They also
share droplets of fluid to keep themselves supplied
with the tiny organisms needed for digesting wood.
You will learn that termites feeding on a bait will
share it with their nestmates and end up destroying
their own colony.

Different Kinds of Termites
There are two main termites in Florida that infest
structures - subterranean and drywood. Subterranean
termites usually live underground where they tunnel
in the soil in search of wood. When searching and
feeding above ground they build mud shelter tubes.
These tubes have a branched pattern and can easily be
broken by hand. Live termites wil be seen inside
active tubes. Subterranean termites also cover the
wood they infest with soil and use carton - a
substance made from their droppings - as nest
material.
Drywood termites live completely inside dead
wood and never tunnel in the soil. They produce dry,
gritty fecal pellets that are often found scattered or in
piles near the wood they infest.
Correct identification of the termites infesting a
structure is extremely important because baits only
work against subterranean termites.

What is a Termite Bait?
A termite bait is usually a paper-, cardboard-, or
sawdust-like material containing the active ingredient
(or AI) that kills termites. The bait is kept inside a
plastic bait station. As termites feed on the bait, the
termite-killing AI gets into their bodies. The AI is
spread through the colony as the termites feed each
other. As more workers feed on the bait, more AI
gets into the colony. Eventually the amount of AI in
each termite increases until it kills them and the
colony dies or is reduced.

Bait Stations
There are two types of bait stations:
above-ground and in-ground. Above-ground stations
are installed directly over shelter tubes or infested
wood so that termites can begin to feed immediately
on the bait.
Figure 2. Above-ground bait station installed directly on an
active termite shelter tube.
In-ground stations are placed in the soil. Most
stations are cylindrical tubes with disk tops. The disks
makes the stations easier to find and keeps them from
sinking into the ground. The tubes have numerous
holes or slits through which termites enter to get to
the wood and bait inside.

What Makes a Good Bait?
Obviously, a good bait kills termites. It should
also taste good so termites will eat plenty of it.
Remember, the more bait that is eaten, the more AI
gets into the termites and is shared with the colony.
Effective baits should also have these qualities:
• The AI should work slowly. If not, the termites
will die before they can feed it to others.
• The AI should not make the termites sick or act
abnormally soon after they start eating the bait.
Abnormal termites are often avoided or cast out
of the colony by their nestmates. This would
prevent them from spreading the AI to others.
• They should not easily mold or decay. Termites
will not eat spoiled bait.

Termite Baits 3

How Do Baits Kill Termites?
The active ingredient is what actually kills
termites. Currently there are two types of AIs used in
termite baits: stomach poisons and insect growth
regulators. The two stomach poisons currently used
in baits are sulfluramid (sul-flu-ra-mid) and
hydramethylnon (hy-dra-meth-il-non). Insect growth
regulators are compounds that act like the natural
hormones that control development. They prevent
termites from forming normal cuticle (skin) during
the growth process known as molting. Noviflumuron
(no-vi-flu-mu-ron), hexaflumuron
(hex-a-flu-mu-ron), and diflubenzuron
(di-flu-ben-zu-ron) are the growth regulators used in
some baits.

How Do Termites Find the Bait?
Termite baits do not lure or attract termites.
Instead, termites must find the bait station as they
tunnel blindly through the soil in search of food. Thus
termite baiting is a "hit or miss" process. However,
studies have shown that subterranean termites dig a
network of branching tunnels. This allows termites to
completely search a given area. Eventually, they find
wood and other material to feed on. Termites can
begin feeding once they find a bait station. When a
station is "hit," bait is added for the termites to eat.
What Is the Procedure for Baiting?
Baiting for subterranean termites is a relatively
simple process. The pest management professional
(PMP) installs stations containing small pieces of
wood or similar material in the ground around the
base of the home. These are spaced from 6 to 20 feet
apart. Stations may also be placed in areas where
termites are likely to be such as near tree stumps,
wood used in landscaping, and in planting beds.
Multiple stations are used to increase the chances that
termites will find them.
Figure 4. Bait stations in the ground around a home.
Once installed, the PMP comes on regular visits
to check the stations for termites. If termites are
found, a bait is placed inside for the termites to feed
on. The PMP returns periodically to inspect and to
add or replace baits as needed. Baiting is stopped
when termites are no longer found in the stations. At
this point, the colony is considered to be reduced or
eliminated. Monitoring continues in case termites
return.
Figure 5. General procedure for baiting: A.) holes made
for the stations B.) stations are installed C.) stations
checked periodically for termites D.) bait added when
termites appear and as needed until termites disappear
from all stations.
Advantages/Disadvantages of Baits
Baits have many advantages over liquid
termiticides. However, they have some limitations.
Here are some points to consider when trying to
decide between using baits or termiticides:
Advantages
• very small amount of AI per treatment (less
than an ounce)
• baits are inside bait station and in the ground,
hard for children or pets to get to them

Termite Baits 4

• AI does not get into soil or water
• no odor
• no large holes drilled through walls or floors
• no chemicals left in soil after treatment is
finished
• colony is completely eliminated in many cases
Disadvantages
• several weeks to several months needed to take
effect, sometimes more than a year
• works only if termites find and eat the bait
• no chemical residues left after treatment to
protect from further infestations
• can be more expensive than liquid termiticides
What Bait Products Are Available
Now?
Currently there are six different subterranean
termite bait systems available for commercial use.
Several others are in development and should be on
the market within the next few years. Below are brief
descriptions of the baits now being used:

Sentricon®
This was the first termite bait available for
commercial use. It is marketed by Dow AgroSciences
as the Sentricon® Colony Elimination System.
Stations containing wood or wood-like monitoring
pieces are installed in the ground. When termites
appear, the pieces are replaced with Recruit™ bait.
For infestations in structures, above-ground stations
baited with Recruit AG™ are used. The active
ingredient in Sentricon® is hexaflumuron.
Sentricon® is the only bait product labeled for
stand-alone pre-treatment of structures. This means it
can be used as a preventive (pre-construction)
treatment without using a liquid termiticide.

Advance™
Whitmire Micro-Gen Research Laboratories, Inc.
manufactures and markets the Advance Termite Bait
System. The bait station holds two pieces: a block of
wood below and on top a cartridge containing
Puri-cell™, a textured cellulose material. During the
monitoring phase, the Puri-Cell contains no AI.
However, when termites are found in the station, the
"blank" Puri-cell is replaced with one containing the
active ingredient, which for this product is
diflubenzuron.

Exterra™
The Exterra Termite Interception and Baiting
System is made by Ensystex. The active ingredient in
their Labyrinth™ bait is diflubenzuron.
One big difference between the design of
Exterra's Quarterra bait station and its competitors is
the Quarterra station holds wood monitoring pieces
and bait at the same time. The wood fits into slots in
the inside wall of the station leaving the center of the
station empty. When termites appear, the shredded
paper-like bait is placed in this open space. The wood
is left in place so the termites can continue feeding
without interruption. This is a useful feature because
sometimes termites will abandon a station if they are
disturbed. Because of this design, the Exterra station
has a larger diameter (about four inches) than
competing brands (two to two-and-a-half inches).
Above-ground stations are also available for direct
application to termite-infested areas in or on a
structure.
Exterra also makes bait bags. These are used in
hard to reach areas or places where plastic stations
will not fit.

FirstLine®
Baiting is one part of FMC's FirstLine® Termite
Defense System. For infestations in or on a structure,
a localized treatment with liquid termiticide or
above-ground FirstLine® Termite Bait stations is
used. Around the structure, SMARTDISC™ Locators
and monitoring stations are placed in the ground to
detect termites. If they are found, the monitoring
station is replaced with a FirstLine® GT Plus Termite

Termite Baits 5

Bait station. The bait is corrugated cardboard that
contains sulfluramid as the active ingredient. FMC
also makes the Defender™ unit. This is a large bait
station (about six inches in diameter) that can hold
any combination of four wood monitor pieces and
bait tubes.

Terminate™
This is a bait product made by Spectracide that
homeowners install and monitor themselves. The
other five termite bait products can only be applied by
licensed pest control operators. The Terminate™ bait
stations are smaller than professional brands and lack
a disk top. The AI is sulfluramid.
Spectracide does not guarantee termite control
when Terminate is used by itself. According to the
label, a liquid termiticide must be used with the bait
for complete control.
Buying and using do-it-yourself termite bait
products generally IS NOT RECOMMENDED.
Effective termite baiting requires training,
experience, and an understanding of termite biology
and behavior.

Subterfuge®
This product is manufactured by BASF
Corporation. One difference between the
Subterfuge® bait system and the others is no wood or
cardboard monitor is used. Baits are added when
stations are first placed in the ground. This way,
termites can begin feeding on the AI as soon as they
find the bait. BASF does not make an in-ground
station but any approved commercially-available
station that the bait cartridge will fit in can be used.
The bait is a dry material that looks like fine,
shredded sawdust. The AI is hydramethylnon.

Is Baiting More or Less Expensive than Using Termiticides?
Generally, termite baiting is more expensive.
The price of a bait treatment includes an installation
fee, sometimes the cost of the bait and stations, plus
the service of having the pest management
professional (PMP) perform routine inspection of the
bait stations both during and after baiting. A liquid
termiticide treatment generally costs less because it
usually is done in a single visit.

So What's Better, Baits or Liquid Termiticides?
This is the most common question asked by
homeowners. Unfortunately, there isn't a simple
answer. Baiting and liquid termiticides both have
certain advantages and disadvantages. One may be
more practical than the other in some situations (for
example, liquid termiticides are necessary when
immediate control is needed for real estate
transactions). Two big factors to consider when
choosing between the two are cost and time. Baiting
can be more expensive and take longer for control,
but it is closely watched by the pest management
company. Baits also may eliminate the colony while
studies indicates that liquid termiticides do not.
Personal feelings toward insecticides may also be a
factor. Baits would be ideal for those who do not
want liquid pesticides used around their home (see
the last section of EDIS publication ENY-210
"Subterranean Termites"
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IG097 for additional
information on whether to use baits).

Rodent Control After a Disaster

Rats and mice are destructive pests that can spread disease, contaminate food, and destroy property. However, as a result of a disaster, the number of rats and mice are often reduced. Thus, illness associated with rats and other small rodents is uncommon immediately after a disaster.1

Surviving rodents often relocate to new areas in search of food, water, and shelter. As the rodents settle into new areas, they will build colonies and reproduce. Typically, it takes 6 to 10 months for rodents to re-establish their colonies after a disaster. As the rodent population grows and resettles, people have a greater chance of being exposed to the diseases carried by rodents.
The following recommendations are designed to help residents reduce the risk of disease or personal injury associated with rodents.

Precautions to Limit Household Exposure
Removing food sources, water, and items that provide shelter for rodents is the best way to prevent contact with rodents. Where necessary, control rodents by using an integrated pest management approach that includes environmental sanitation, food storage, rodent-proofing, poisoning, and trapping.

Inside the Home
• Keep food and water covered and stored in rodent-proof containers. A rodent-proof container is made of thick plastic, glass, or metal and has a tight-fitting lid.
• Keep pet food covered and stored in rodent-proof containers. Allow pets only enough food for each meal, then store or discard any remaining food. Do not leave excess pet food or water out overnight.
• Dispose of garbage on a frequent and regular basis. If storing trash and food waste inside the home, do so in rodent-proof containers.
• Wash dishes, pans, and cooking utensils immediately after use.
• Remove leftover food and clean up any spilled food from cooking and eating areas.
• Do not store empty cans or other opened containers with food residues inside the home.
• When possible, use spring-loaded traps in the home. Use a small amount of chunky peanut butter as bait. Place traps in a "T" shape against baseboards or wall surfaces where rodent rub marks, droppings, or rodents have been seen. Keep children and pets away from areas where traps are placed.
• Glue traps and live traps are not recommended. Rodents caught in live traps will likely reenter the dwelling. Glue traps can scare mice that are caught live and cause them to urinate. This may increase your risk of being exposed to diseases.
Rodent Control After Hurricanes and Floods (continued from previous page) May 1, 2006 Page 2 of 3

Outside the Home
• Dispose of debris and trash as soon as possible. Woodpiles and stacks of lumber or other materials to be saved for later use should be stored at least 12 inches above the ground and as far away from the home as possible.
• Store garbage in rodent-proof containers with tight fitting lids.
• Store grains and animal feed in rodent-proof containers.
• Remove any food sources, including animal carcasses, which might attract rodents.
• Haul away trash, abandoned vehicles, discarded tires, and other items that might serve as rodent nesting sites.
• Keep grass short and cut or remove brush and dense shrubbery that may provide rodents cover and protection. Trim the limbs off any trees or shrubs that overhang or touch buildings.
• Place spring-loaded traps in outbuildings and in other areas where signs of rodents are found. Do not allow children or pets to play near spring traps.
Rodent-Proofing Your Home
Seal gaps and holes inside and outside the home that are greater than a ¼-inch diameter with any of the following materials: cement, light-gauge metal mesh, wire screening, hardware cloth, steel wool, caulk, expanding foam, or other patching materials.
Cleanup of Rodent-Contaminated Areas or Dead Rodents
Thoroughly clean areas with signs of rodent activity to reduce the likelihood of exposure to germs and diseases. When cleaning, it is important that you do not stir dust when sweeping or vacuuming up droppings, urine, or nesting materials.
Cleanup of Contaminated Surfaces
• Wear rubber, latex, vinyl, or nitrile gloves if you touch dead rodents, traps, or rodent droppings.
• Spray rodent urine or droppings with a disinfectant or a 1:10 chlorine solution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water) until thoroughly soaked. Use a paper towel to pick up the urine and the droppings and discard it outdoors in a sealed container.
• Do not vacuum or sweep rodent urine, droppings, or contaminated surfaces unless they have been disinfected.
• After the rodent droppings and urine have been removed, disinfect items that might have been contaminated.

Cleanup of Dead Rodents
• Check traps regularly.
• Spray dead rodents with a disinfectant or chlorine solution.
• While wearing gloves, take the rodent out of the trap by lifting the spring-loaded metal bar and letting the animal fall into a plastic bag or place the entire trap containing the dead rodent into a plastic bag, and seal the bag. Then place the rodent into a second plastic bag and seal it. Promptly dispose of the rodent in the sealed double bag.
• After removing gloves, thoroughly wash hands with soap and water (or use a waterless alcohol-based hand gel when soap and water are not available and hands are not visibly soiled).
• If the trap will be reused, decontaminate it by immersing and washing it in a disinfectant or chlorine solution and rinsing well afterwards.
Rodent Control After Hurricanes and Floods (continued from previous page) May 1, 2006 Page 3 of 3
• Continue trapping for at least 1 additional week after the last rodent is caught.
• If rodents continue to be a problem, consider contacting a professional pest control operator for help.
Potential Rodent-borne Diseases in Hurricane Katrina Affected Areas
The table below provides a list of potential rodent-borne diseases in the areas affected by Hurricane Katrina (Louisiana, Mississippi, and Alabama). Many of these diseases are rare. However, residents in the affected areas should be aware that rodents may seek shelter in homes after the disaster. Residents re-entering their homes should take precautions when cleaning rodent urine, droppings, or nesting materials and take steps to eliminate the infestation by removing rodent food sources and nesting sites as noted above.

Table. Potential Rodent-borne Diseases in Hurricane Katrina Affected Areas
Disease

Rodent reservoir
Method of Transmission
More Information
Leptospirosis
Rodents and other animals
Ingestion of contaminated water or food; skin or mucous membrane contact with water or soil contaminated with urine from infected animals.
• www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dbmd/diseaseinfo/leptospirosis_g.htm
• www.bt.cdc.gov/disasters/hurricanes/katrina/leptofaqs.asp
Lymphocytic Choriomeningitis (LCM)
House mouse
Inhalation of, mucosal contact with, or ingestion of dust or food that is contaminated with rodent secretions/excretions; and occasionally bite wounds.
• www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dvrd/spb/mnpages/dispages/lcmv.htm
Hantavirus pulmonary syndrome (HPS)
Cotton rat, Rice rat, and White-footed mouse (www.cdc.gov/ncidod/diseases/hanta/hps/noframes/rodents.htm) in affected region
Inhalation of, mucosal contact with, or ingestion of dust or food that is contaminated with rodent secretions/excretions; and occasionally bite wounds.
• www.cdc.gov/hantavirus
Murine typhus
Rats
Inhalation of aerosolized ectoparasite feces; bite from an infected flea or mite; or by inoculation of abraded skin with crushed infected ectoparasites or feces.
• www2.ncid.cdc.gov/travel/yb/utils/ybGet.asp?section=dis&obj=rickettsial.htm
Rat-bite fever
Rats and possibly mice
Bite or scratch wound; ingestion of food, water, or milk contaminated with rat feces.
• www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dbmd/diseaseinfo/ratbitefever_g.htm
Rickettsialpox
Rats and mice
Bite from an infected mite.
• www2.ncid.cdc.gov/travel/yb/utils/ybGet.asp?section=dis&obj=rickettsial.htm
Salmonellosis
Rats and mice
Ingestion of feces from handling rodents, droppings, or bedding.
• www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dbmd/diseaseinfo/salmonellosis_g.htm

Controlling Wood-Boring Beetles in Houses

Belakangan saya sering mendengar keluhan dari rekan-2 ISPM-15, sering menemui kesulitan tentang pengendalian wood-boring, berikut ini kita bisa coba untuk menyimak beberapa ulasan tentang pengendalian wood-boring yang disampaikan oleh Eric P. Benson dari Clamson University, semoga bermanfaat ...............

Controlling Wood-Boring Beetles in Houses

After termites, wood-boring beetles are the most important wood-destroying insects in homes. The amount of damage that wood-boring beetles cause depends on many factors. The type of wood (hardwood or softwood), the moisture content of the wood, and the environmental conditions at the infestation site all affect the severity of beetle damage. This fact sheet discusses the identification and control of some of the most common wood-boring beetles found in South Carolina.

Lyctid Powderpost Beetles
Description. In the United States, there are more than thirty-five kinds of lyctid beetles. These are considered the "true" powderpost beetles and the adults are 1/8 to 1/4 inch long. They are slender and range in color from reddish-brown to black. Their heads are obvious when these insects are viewed from above.
Habits. Lyctid beetles infest only hardwoods, such as oak. They can live in wood with a wide moisture range, from a dry 8 percent to a very moist 32 percent.
Only the larvae damage wood. The female lays an average of twenty to fifty eggs in crevices or on the ends of boards. When they hatch, the tiny larvae bore down into the wood. As the larvae grow, they bore to a point just underneath the surface of the wood, where they change into adults.
After they change, the adults cut a 1/32 to 1/16 inch circular exit hole in the surface of the wood. Often, powdery wood dust created by the beetle’s feeding is pushed out as the adult emerges. This is why they are called "powderpost" beetles.
Males and females exit at the same time and mate, and the new generation of females lays eggs again. The entire life cycle for most lyctid beetles takes 9 to 12 months.

Anobiid Powderpost Beetles
Description. There are more than 200 kinds of anobiid beetles, of which very few infest wood. Most anobiid beetles are found in homes. The few that do infest wood are also called powderpost beetles or deathwatch beetles.
The wood-infesting anobiids range from 1/8 to 1/4 inch in length. Their color ranges from reddish brown to nearly black. The body segment just behind the head is hoodlike and completely covers the head when the insect is viewed from above.
Habits. Anobiids can infest both hardwoods and softwoods. Only the larvae feed on wood. They generally prefer wood in cool locations with moisture levels above 14 percent. Anobiids are the most common beetles infesting crawl spaces.
Female anobiid beetles usually lay fewer than fifty eggs under wood splinters, in cracks, or in old exit holes. Like lyctid beetles, the small anobiid larvae bore into the wood, where they eat and develop.
When the larvae change into adults, they chew round exit holes between 1/16 to 1/8 inch in diameter. The male and female emerge together and mate, and the female deposits her eggs. Though the females fly well and can lay eggs at new locations, they are most likely to lay their eggs on the board from which they emerged. Most anobiid beetles take 2 to 3 years to complete their development.

Bostrichid Powderpost Beetles
Description. Bostrichid beetles are sometimes referred to as "false" or "large" powderpost beetles, bamboo borers, or even lead-cable borers. The adults range in color from reddish brown to black. They range in size from 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Like anobiid beetles, the segment just behind the head conceals the head from above. The heads of most bostrichid beetles are directed downward.

Habits. Generally, bostrichid beetles cause much less damage in homes than lyctid or anobiid beetles. Most bostrichid beetles bore into freshly cut hardwoods, but a few will attack softwoods. Unlike lyctid or anobiid beetles, both adults and larvae of the bostrichid beetle damage wood.
Adult females bore "egg tunnels" into wood to deposit their eggs. After hatching, the larvae tunnel into the wood to feed and grow. Under most conditions, the larvae complete their development by the spring of the year following egg-laying. Adults cut 3/32 to 9/32 inch, round exit holes when they emerge. The adults rarely reinfest the wood from which they emerge.

Old House Borers
Description. The old house borer belongs to a group called cerambycid beetles, which are also know as long-horned beetles. Most long-horned beetles are wood borers in the larval stage, but only the old house borer is a serious pest in homes.
Adult old house borers range from 5/8 to 1 inch in length. They are brownish black in color, with many gray hairs on the head and forepart of the body. The segment just behind the head has a shiny raised bump on each side, giving it the appearance of a face.
Spot Treatments. For active wood-boring beetle infestations, several spot treatments are possible. These include controlling wood moisture, using surface covers, mechanical removal, freezing, and insecticide treatments.

Habits. Old house borers infest seasoned softwoods, especially pine. They can be found in old houses, as their name suggests, but they are actually more common in new homes.
The females lay about fifty eggs in cracks and crevices in wood. The larvae penetrate the wood to feed, but they often stay near the surface. Larvae usually require 2 to 3 years to develop in wood with 15 to 25 percent moisture, but they can take as long as 15 years to develop in very dry wood.
Usually, larvae become adults in the spring, but they may not emerge immediately. When they do exit, the adults cut oval holes about 1/4 to 3/8 inch in diameter. Adults are normally most active in June and July.

Control
There are several factors you should consider before starting control measures for wood-boring beetles. The first is that no control may be necessary. Many homes have some damage from wood-boring beetles. However, in many cases the damage is very minor and old, which means that all the beetles have died. Unless you see beetles or fresh wood powder around the holes, chemical treatment is not necessary. Fresh wood powder is usually light in color and does not clump. Old wood powder is often yellowed and clumps together.
Also, there are many beetles in nature that attack wood but do not cause serious damage or reinfest lumber in homes. It is important to know which beetles you have before you go to the trouble and expense of some of the treatments.

Finally, with the advent of central air conditioning and heating, the potential for widespread damage has decreased. In fact, even with the more serious lyctid and anobiid beetles, if a house has no moisture problems, has a central cooling and heating system, and is not unoccupied for long periods, serious problems are not likely.
Moisture problems are most commonly found in the lumber in crawl spaces. A crawl space should be well ventilated and, in many cases, should have a
vapor barrier. Generally, plastic sheets (4 mil polyethylene) covering 70 percent of the crawl space will keep the lumber from getting too moist. Surface cover, including paint, polyurethane, and water sealants, will protect wood from moisture problems and help prevent wood-boring beetles from penetrating the wood.
Surface treatments usually do not prevent beetles already in wood from emerging. If an infestation is limited to a few pieces of lumber, or if the lumber can be removed easily, replacing the wood may be the best control strategy.

Freezing temperatures can kill wood-boring beetles, especially in small furniture. If you have access to a large freezer, you might want to consider this control option. Wood subjected to freezing should be wrapped in plastic. Freeze the item for about two weeks. After removing it from the freezer, leave the item wrapped until it reaches room temperature. This protects the wood from water marks due to condensation as the item warms. Also, handle the item carefully since glue joints are very fragile when frozen.

Most insecticides for wood-boring beetles are restricted and can be used only by certified pest control operators. You may be able to find some insecticides at hardware or discount stores labeled for wood-boring beetles around the home, but very few products are available to the public any longer. Before applying insecticide, remove any surface covering, such as paint, so the insecticide can penetrate the wood. As with any insecticide, you must follow the specific instructions on the label of the product you buy. Since pest control operators have access to a wider range of insecticides and equipment, your best option may be to employ a professional.

Fumigation. In situations where spot treatments have failed or in serious infestations where there are large numbers of beetles throughout the structure, fumigation may be the best control option. The penetration of fumigants can kill wood-boring beetles in all areas of the home. However, fumigants cannot prevent future wood-boring beetle infestations.
Fumigation is expensive, complicated and can only be done by a certified pest control operator. Before employing a professional, get quotes from several reputable firms.

Damage by Common Wood-Boring Beetles
Insect Type Wood Type Age of Wooda Shape & Size of Holes Reinfestationsb
Anobiid
Beetles Soft & Hard New & Old Round 1/16" - 1/8" Yes
Bostrichid
Beetles Soft & Hard New Round 3/32" - 9/32" Rarely
Lyctid Beetles Hard New & Old Round 1/32" - 1/16" Yes
Old House
Borer Soft New & Old Oval 1/4" - 3/8" Yes
aNew Wood is freshly cut or unseasoned lumber. Old wood is seasoned or dried lumber.
bMany other wood-boring beetles can initially infest new wood in homes, but their damage is limited and they do not reinfest.
For other publications in our Entomology Insect Information Series visit our web site at http://entweb.clemson.edu/cuentres/eiis/index.htm.
____________________________________________________
Prepared by Eric P. Benson, Extension Entomologist/Associate Professor and Patricia A. Zungoli, Extension Entomologist/ Professor, Department of Entomology, Soils, and Plant Sciences, Clemson University.
____________________________________________________
This information is supplied with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by the Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service is implied. Brand names of pesticides are given as a convenience and are neither an endorsement nor guarantee of the product nor a suggestion that similar products are not effective. Use pesticides only according to the directions on the label. Follow all directions, precautions and restrictions that are listed.
EIIS/HS-10 (New 10/1998) (Revised 01/2001).

Kutu Busuk ( Tinggi bhs.Jawa )

Kutu Busuk ( Bed Bug )

Banyak diantara kita sudah tahu dengan yang namanya KUTU BUSUK atau TINGGI (dalam bahasa jawa). bila rekan-2 ingin mengetahui secara detail tentang hama ini, silahkan simak paparan dari Prof. Patricia A. Zungoli dari Clamson University. di bawah ini ......



BED BUGS
Humans and bed bugs have a long association. Records of bed bug infestations date back at least to 400 B.C. Before World War II, bed bugs were very common in homes, hotels, and boardinghouses. It was not until modern insecticides were developed that bed bugs could be easily eliminated. Today, bed bugs are uncommon pests. Many infestations identified as bed bugs are actually closely related species such as bat bugs or swallow bugs. Knowing what species has infested a house is an important distinction when planning a control strategy. While all of these bugs are external, bloodsucking parasites of warm-blooded animals, each type has a preferred host. Knowing the preferred host is essential to locating and eliminating the source of the bugs.

Identification. All members of this group share similar characteristics. They are about 3/16" long, broadly oval and flat. Most are mahogany or red-brown in color. The larvae are very small and clear. After feeding bed bug larvae can resemble small drops of fresh blood. Bed bugs have straw-like (piercing-sucking) mouthparts. Their wings are very short and look like small pads. They can not fly. Bed bugs are known to give off what has been described as an obnoxiously sweet odor, or an odor similar to fresh raspberries. They will leave small spots of dried blood on the sheets and walls after feeding. If you discover a bug, have a professional identify it.

Reaction to Bites. The bite of a bed bug is not painful and usually the host initially is unaware of the bite. Many people have an allergic reaction to the saliva injected into the skin by the bug. Often there is a large oval or oblong, inflamed swelling, called a wheal, at the feeding site. It may be accompanied by intense itching. Rarely when a person is hypersensitive, asthmatic symptoms may occur.

Bed bugs have been implicated for the transmission of at least 41 human diseases, vitamin and mineral deficiencies, and allergic reactions, but they have not been proven responsible for any epidemics or serious disease outbreaks. Thus, they are considered nuisance pests, and are not an important medical problem.

Biology. After a blood meal, female bed bugs will lay one to five eggs a day. With multiple feedings they may lay 200 or more eggs during their life. Eggs are usually laid on a rough surface in a protected place like in a crack or crevice in walls or floors. In heavy infestations bed bugs will lay eggs on garments. The young bugs, or nymphs, molt five times before becoming an adult and must have a blood meal before each molt. If conditions are good, nymphs can become adults in six to seven weeks. In cases of starvation bed bugs can live more than 260 days. However, in all stages, bed bugs can go for long periods without a blood meal, so their life cycle may be many months long. Adult females can survive more than 150 days without food. Bed Bug Photo by Clemson University Extension

Habits. Bed bugs are nocturnal insects. They hide in protected places during the daytime and emerge at night to feed on their sleeping hosts. Some of their more common hiding places are behind molding, in mattress seams, bedframes, loose wallpaper, and cracks in hardwood floors. With a large infestation, they may be found farther away from a potential host. If the problem is not bed bugs, but rather one of the other closely related bat bugs or swallow bugs, the harborages might be in an infested attic or chimney where the preferred host may be found.

Detection. Because bugs hide, having an infestation without actually seeing any of them is possible. If you suspect you have bed bugs, look for small spots of blood on bedding or walls. There may be black or brown spots left behind around well-used hiding or resting places. These spots are dried-excrement.

Control. As with most pest problems, the beginning point for making control decisions should be based on identification and inspection. With bed bugs and their cousins, a species identification is important because it will help determine the focal point for the infestation. Because true bed bugs are uncommon, often the source of the problem is roosting bats and nesting birds. In these two cases, ridding a structure of the source is essential for control. Before any treatments are applied to control the bugs, the bats or birds should be removed from the structure. This often requires the skill of a professional pest control operator because of the complex behavior of the offending animal. Be aware that killing migratory birds and some bats is illegal, because they are federally protected.

Deep cleaning should follow. All areas where infestations are found should be thoroughly vacuumed. Vacuum mattresses, bedframes, and stuffed furniture in infested rooms. Flooring and carpeting also should be well-vacuumed. Pay close attention to edges and loose areas where bugs could hide. After finishing vacuuming, put the vacuum cleaner collection bag into a plastic bag, seal it and place it in an outdoor trash receptacle immediately. Cleaning egg infested garments is also important.

Once the source has been removed, the next step should be a crack and crevice treatment with an insecticide labeled for the target site. In rooms where infants, children or elderly people will spend many hours such as a bedroom, take care to only treat potential harborage areas. Bed bugs and other closely related bugs may be difficult to control because of their many hiding places. You may need to hire a professional pest control specialist to resolve this problem.
For other publications in our Entomology Insect Information Series visit our web site at http://entweb.clemson.edu/cuentres/eiis/index.htm.
____________________________________________________
Prepared by Patricia A. Zungoli, Extension Entomologist/ Professor, Eric P. Benson, Extension Entomologists/Professor, and Will Reeves, Graduate Research Assistant, Department of Entomology, Soils, and Plant Sciences, Clemson University.
____________________________________________________
This information is supplied with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by the Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service is implied. Brand names of pesticides are given as a convenience and are neither an endorsement nor guarantee of the product nor a suggestion that similar products are not effective. Use pesticides only according to the directions on the label. Follow all directions, precautions and restrictions that are listed.
EIIS/HS-29 (New 08/2000

CIGARETTE BEETLES

CIGARETTE BEETLES

Berikut ini adalah sekilas pengetahuan tentang hama pada tembakau, yang kami kutip dari CLAMSON UNIVERSITY, dan kebetulan yang mempersiapkan makalah ini temen kami dari IPB, yang sedang mengambil gelar Doktor di sana, beliau adalah Mas Idham Harahap.....

COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE

The Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service offers its programs to people of all ages, regardless of race, color, sex, religion, national origin, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, marital or family status and is an equal opportunity employer. Clemson University Cooperating with U.S. Department of Agriculture and South Carolina Counties. Issued in Furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914. Public Service Activities CIGARETTE BEETLES

Processed tobacco and tobacco products, are susceptible to cigarette beetle attack. Cigarette beetles often infest tobacco manufacturing and retail outlets. Besides tobacco, cigarette beetles are also secondary pests of many other produces, such as wheat flour, wheat bran, rice, rice meals, barley, corn meal, soybean meals, sun flower meals, legume seeds, peanuts, ginger, nutmeg, curry powder, figs, raisins, chili powder, cayenne pepper, paprika, dried fish, fish meals, dates, yeast, and even drugs. Many dried plant materials, such as dried flowers and herbarium materials may be infested too. Other non-food items they attack are leather, woolen clothes, glue in book covers, bamboo and furniture with straw stuffing.

Description
Cigarette beetles are 1/8 inch (2.0-3.7 mm) in length and light to dark brown in color. They resemble drugstore beetles, but do not have the lines of pits on their backs (wing covers). The wing covers appear smooth. Antennae are saw-like with the same thickness from the base to the tip. The head is bent down sharply, nearly at a right angle to the body, giving a humpback appearance when viewed from the side. Eggs are pearly white, and covered by a waxy shell to protect them from drying out, so they are not easily seen with the naked eye. Larvae are creamy-colored or grayish-white and covered with fine light brown hairs.

Life Cycle and Habits
Females lay 30 eggs that hatch in about 10 days. On tobacco, eggs are laid in the folds of bundled leaves in storage and also in open end of cigars. On food items, the females lay their eggs in or on the food. The larval period ranges from 5-10 weeks. Newly hatched larvae move away from light and are extremely active, entering small holes in search of food. The larvae make long cylindrical galleries through tobacco leaves and feed on the edges and center of the leaves. In other types of foods, larvae tunnel into the food and make galleries too. Pupae develop in a cell within the tobacco or other food items, or attach to a surface such as tobacco or food processing equipment. Most adults live about 3 weeks, but some can live up to 70-90 days. There are 5-6 generations per year in warm areas, but usually only one generation per year in colder regions. Adults are strong flier and will fly in the late afternoon and on dull cloudy days at temperature above 65o F. They can fly up to a 2 miles range. Cigarette beetles may overwinter as larvae, or as adults.
Prevention and Control

Non-chemical
Good sanitation is the best prevention and control for cigarette beetle infestations. If you follow a few recommendations you can usually eliminate the problem quickly.
1. Only purchase food packages that are sealed and show no sign of insect damage.
2. Only purchase food in amounts you can use in a short period of time (between 2 to 4 months), especially during the warm summer months.
3. Store all foods in insect-proof containers with tight fitting lids or freeze them in 0o F. Freezing grain products for 3 days after purchase is a good habit.
4. Keep cabinets and the surrounding area clean and free from food spillage. Vacuum all dust and debris from cabinets and floor of the kitchen. Do not clean cabinet with water because this may leave a pasty residue attractive to the pest.
5. Properly ventilate the storage area to discourage these moisture-loving pests.
6. Identify all infested food or other items and discard or treat (by freezing) them. Check decorations that may be in storage. Dried straw flowers can be the source of a cigarette beetle infestation. Infestations can sometimes originate from birdseed or pet food stashed away by mice in an attic or behind a wall.

Chemical
Avoid using insecticides around food. Use them only as a last resort and carefully follow the label directions. If you decide to use insecticides, choose a household insecticide labeled for pantry pests. Remove all food and clean cabinets. Discard all infested food. Do not treat surfaces used for food storage, preparation or where kitchen appliances or utensils are kept. Give special attention to cracks and crevices in cabinets. Allow the insecticide to dry before returning food to cabinets. Cover the shelves with clean shelf paper. After treatment, good sanitation and proper storage are keys to preventing future infestations.
For other publications in our Entomology Insect Information Series visit our web site at http://entweb.clemson.edu/cuentres/eiis/index.htm.
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Prepared by Idham Harahap, Graduate Assistant, Patricia A. Zungoli, Extension Entomologist/Professor, and Eric P. Benson, Extension Entomologist/Associate Professor, Department of Entomology, Soils, and Plant Sciences, Clemson University.
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This information is supplied with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by the Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service is implied. Brand names of pesticides are given as a convenience and are neither an endorsement nor guarantee of the product nor a suggestion that similar products are not effective. Use pesticides only according to the directions on the label. Follow all directions, precautions and restrictions that are listed.
EIIS/HS-30 (New 02/2001).

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